“You travellin’?”
He was squat and dark, dark like they say in old books to mean a little foreign looking. His voice was, as far as I could tell, southern.
I looked at Flora. She was better at strangers than me.
“Yes,” she said, brightly. “We’re heading up into the mountains – the Cascades.”
“You from England?”
“Yes. Do you know how we can get there?”
“The Cascades?”
“Yes.”
He looked around the car park, then began to chuckle.
“How come you’re here?”
Flora rolled her eyes. I seethed.
“Wrong bus,” she said.
“Bad information,” I said.
“You ain’t getting to the Cascades tonight.” His voice crinkled a little, then he erupted into full blown laughter. “This sure ain’t the Cascades!”
A boy in a crisp shirt was cycling in tiny circles over in front of the first in a row of gated drives. I watched him until he noticed us, wobbled in a skid of gravel and zipped off. A blue, dusky chill was settling in the air.
“Is there somewhere we can camp near here?” asked Flora.
The man raised his eyebrows. “You wanna camp?”
“Yes, we were going to camp in the mountains, but I suppose we’ll have to go tomorrow. Is there a campsite?”
I pointed to a large notice in the corner of the carpark. “It’ll say there.” I shifted weight and hauled my pack off my back and onto the tarmac, and walked over. I made sure I looked at the notice from a position where I could keep an eye on them.
It said this was Pinelawn, and there was a golf club, and a private estate, and buses that stopped at 7pm.
It was 7.30.
I heard Flora laugh. I walked on, beyond the sign. There were trees, and beyond, a lawn.
“This is Monty,” said Flora, when I returned. Monty held out a hand, and I shook it. “He says we can’t camp here. There’s private security.”
“They drive round, and if they see ya, they’ll bust ya.”
“We must be able to go somewhere,” I said.
Monty smiled. It cracked his face open. “I can show you where to go. I’ve gotta campsite.”
“Thanks,” I said, “But I think we’ll be fine.”
Flora looked at me. Her eyes had that look. It was like that time in Malawi when someone passed me a small baby to hold, and I could see it was covered in snot and probably urine, only she looked at me like I was Cecil Rhodes, and I just had to.
“But maybe it would be really helpful.”
She gave me a little smile, then a wider one to Monty as he led us off.
“This isn’t my permanent camp. I just been here a couple days.”
The lawn was Pinelawn neat. Nice shrubs, metalled path leading off to one side. Sheltered by trees.
“This is lovely,” said Flora.
Monty beamed. He went over to the bundle on the ground under one of the shrubs. He pulled out a poncho.
“This is all you need. I can make camp with this, a few sticks, and I’m happy.”
I dumped my bag. I looked at his bundle. I could see there was a sleeping bag there, but it was greasy with use.
I turned to Flora. “What do you think?”
“Is there a place we can put our tent up?” she asked.
Monty chuckled. “You won’t need it. Not in summer. They’ll see it from the road, anyhow.”
I looked at Flora. I made a face. She frowned back.
“You settle yourselves down, and I’m going to find us some beers.”
“No, honestly, don’t worry about us,” I said. “I’m not even sure-“
“Let us give you some cash for the beers,” Flora interrupted. “Here.” She pulled out a ten dollar bill.
Monty frowned and waved his hand at us. “Oh no, don’t you worry.”
“Really?”
“Really.”
While we waited, I played with the grass. I almost asked her if this was revenge for the bus, or for the motel in Reno. The sky was dusty and fading to a deep rich blue. Between the leaves I saw a nugget of lamplight. Flora rifled through her pack, busy with nothing. I watched her. After a while, I figured out she was hiding her passport and money in her pants.
We settled round a small fire. Monty handed out the cheap, super-strength lager he’d come back with. He talked about ‘travellin’ a lot, as did we. Flora told him some well-worn stories, I added details, and Monty laughed, huge peals of cackling, then coughing.
It all felt very normal. The sky was dark now, and Monty’s face was mostly in shadow. I liked him, I think. I know I imagined what we might say about it all when we got back. I think I imagined starting by saying, ‘I can’t believe we did this, but..’ Or, ‘We met the most amazing guy!’ I knew when we told it that some people would put their hands over their mouths, and open their eyes wide, and say things like ‘You did what?’ I knew it would make me feel good to hear how shocked they were.
I stared at Monty’s shadowy figure, and imagined how I might describe him.
“Tom! My buddy!”
A tall shambling shape approached, hands hanging bear-like.
“Tom!”
Monty rose. He slapped the newcomer on the back and pointed at him. “This is my buddy,” he said.
We smiled and said, “Hi,” shook hands, sat down.
You could tell right away that Tom was a little broken. His voice slurred, not much, just a hint, like a stretched old cassette tape. He was funny, though. The two of them had a little double act thing going, like old friends who know the jokes in advance and finish each other’s stories.
“Tom, my buddy Tom.”
Monty slung an arm round his friend.
“He’s just a dog. Dog Tom. Tom the dog.”
Tom barked.
“You wanna know why he’s a dog?”
We nodded, smiling.
“Cos he’s a dog!”
(woof woof)
“No, but you wanna know?”
Nod again.
“You don’t wanna know!”
(woof woof)
“You sure as hell don’t wanna know!”
We drank cheap lager. Monty spoke, laughed. He talked about places he’d been, other campsites.
“Travellin. I fuckin love it. Don’t you love it?”
He pointed to the stars.
“I ain’t slept in a house for five years.”
We told him about our trip. Flora told him about the motel in Reno. He laughed at us. I told another story, and threw my arms around her, to prove I didn’t care.
“So you two in love, right? You in love!”
“Uh-“
“No, you can’t say shit to that! Look at your face!”
(woof) said Tom.
“Hey, look at him, man! He knows it! You gotta marry her, man!”
Later, towards the morning. I haven’t spoken for a while. The leaves catch the light of the fire on one side, and the streetlights from the car park on the other. I drift, vaguely. It might be time for sleep soon. Monty, laughing at nothing, deep and rasping. Flora, laughing too. The sound dies away, but above, I see stars poking bright holes through the thin smoky cloud, and beyond, the deepest, richest blue yet, so blue it’s black.
Monty, I think. Monty. Monty the traveller. The night we met Monty. My friend Monty.
“I remember the first time I killed a woman”
My thick brain sharpened abruptly.
“It was in the Gulf. Kuwait. She came runnin up over the side of a dune, and she had one of them – whaddaya call it? All over. Like a tent. Like a goddam poncho.”
I stared at Monty. His face was cut deep with shadow.
“The captain told me to shoot her. Never know if they’re gonna have a bomb or some shit on underneath.”
I looked over to Flora. She was laughing at something Tom had said now.
“Heavy shit, you know.”
I nodded.
“They never give you anything after, either. Fucked up.”
He raised his can to me. His eyes caught the light. They were warm and sad. “Cheers, buddy.” He slurped at it, then grinned and smacked his lips. “That’s the shit.”
I stared at him. Tom barked from where he was squatting in the shadows. Monty let out a sudden sharp howl and stood up, arms out.
“Tom the dog!”
Monty’s laugh rang out, deep and wide and worn down to the bone. He turned to me. His eyes gleamed.
“You wanna know why he’s called Tom the dog?”
Suddenly, I knew that I really didn’t.
“You wanna know why he’s called Tom the dog?”
I felt sick.
“It’s cos he shits like a dog! On the sidewalk, in the park! Tom the dog!”
Tom barked. I smelt the stench of faeces tucked under the wind.
I did sleep, later, but I dreamt of being cold and scared in a field under diamond-sharp stars. In the morning, I woke from my shallow sleep to see Monty having a piss against a tree. I closed my eyes, then opened them again. His hand moved in sharp jerks and his head was craned unnaturally.
I looked over to Flora. Her eyes were black and open in her grey face.
Monty insisted on taking us to the supermarket to get supplies before we headed off. He pointed us in the direction of the best road for hitching on, too. In the supermarket, he even insisted on buying us some food.
“This is the stuff, man, this is what you want when you’re travellin.”
We couldn’t say no. We tried, but it was too hard to insist, and in the back of my mind, I was sure the security guard was watching us, looking at Monty in his shabby combats.
He shook our hands at the side of the road.
“It was good to meet you folks,” he said. “Good luck travellin’.”
His eyes were soft and for a second I thought he was going to cry. He stood for a moment, then turned quickly and shambled off.
We got a lift. We hadn’t spoken much while we waited. We were at the trailhead in a few hours. There, we sat and checked our baggage. We had tents, a gas stove, mats, sleeping bags, gore-tex waterproofs, and bags of dried fruit. And a plastic bag filled with cheap white bread and luncheon meat.
I made to throw it away, but Flora said no, we had to take it.
So we did.
The trail was beautiful. Lush, clean woods, rough grey boulders and artful patches of blue sky gave way to a high rocky path cresting and dipping between bare, ragged peaks in skirts of green. At the top of a pass we ate. Flora pulled out the white bread and luncheon meat. The meat peeled off in uniform grey discs, and the bread was skewed and doughy.
“I’m not going to eat that,” said Flora decisively.
I grinned. “But you wanted to take it.”
She looked at me. “You know why I wanted to take it.”
“I don’t.”
Her face was alert, bright, sharp, everything I loved.
She shook her head. “I don’t care what you say. I don’t want it.”
I looked at the meat. It shone.
“Imagine the animal this came from,” I said. “Like a giant earthworm put through a bacon slicer.”
“Ugh!”
“Like a slice of whale dick.”
“Stop it!”
She was grinning.
“They probably mince up hobos to make it. Tastes of the real travellin’ experience.”
She made a face and pushed my hand away. I made to shove it in her face and she flinched and grabbed at my wrist. We tumbled off our bags, giggling.
Eventually, we threw the meat over a cliff. If you flicked your wrist, it span and sailed on the updraft like a Frisbee.